Why do we glue the sidewalls on the tires? We glue it not because it is  coming off from the rim. If it is, you need to glue the tire onto the rim or use the right wheel offset or stop crashing! lol... j/k  We glue it so that we can lessend the front bite that you get when coming into the corner. Usually, if there's too much front bite, the car traction rolls even if you're smooth with your steering wheel ( I will explain more on my blog later). Glueing is also good for even tire wear for MR03's.

What you'll need:
1. Exacto Knife, pin i.e., paper clip or tooth pick, etc..

Here I will show you guys how to adjust the left diff hub so that you have a smoother, bind free, zero to minimal play on that rear left diff hub.

First, you'll need the backing paper from the tire tape. Then your allen wrench to tighten the set screw.

With the left wheel out and left diff hub loose, squeeze the paper right in between the left bearing inner raise and left hub. You can try to put a little bit of pressure onto the left hub towards the motor, then tighten the set screw. 

I just finished an article on how to fix the glitch for MR03. That being said, I'll make this tut quite simple and straight forward. :)

Before we want to just solder the motor wire on the board but we dont know is that if the wire is not properly soldered, we are actually causing resistance to the motor. Which is something we do not want. This is how you want to solder your motor wire for less resistance.

Apply solder around the motor tabs. More than this MR03 2nd batch solder...

More like this;

Hi Guys,

This is the only car I use when I race. It has a pretty basic set up. I try to keep it as simple as possible... it even has stock 3010's fets on it. ;) Enjoy!

-PN low down white springs
-PN +1 wheel offset front (I just recently started running +1 upfront and it made my car very stable. I switch it to 0 offset from time to time but so far I'm liking the stability I get from this offset so, I'm keeping it for now).
-ATM yellow plastic shim on top
-PN 2x shims bottom knuckle (I forgot the thickness of it but I'll post soon once I find out what it is)
-PN 20 slicks

Concern about how much does these stuff weigh? Well, I'll try to post those items here and if you have request, please let me know and I'll try to post them here as well.

PN 53t spur with center bearing of course: 1.1 grams

PN motor pod is the best pod in the market right now. So if you're still running that Atomic pod... it's time to upgrade.

A lot of the newer drivers don't really pay much attention to those motor wires hitting the body, rubbing on the tires, etc... but guess what? This scale is so small that when that motor wire hits the body, it actually causes a "tweak" feel to the car.

Where do we run the motor wire? Well, anywhere you want as long as it is not too short or too long. Too long like PN70 motor wire and installing the wires without cutting the length. Those wires is what I call, "too long". So you must shorten them. Too short would be less than an inch where you can visibly see the rear end of the car, not even or balance when looking at it from the rear. This can be caused by having a short wire that's already pulling the motor or too short that when it's soldered to the board and the motor, you can see the kink on the motor wire pushing the rear pod on one side. This too is too short. What you want is to have the motor wire away from the disc plate, top shocks, wheels and differential shaft.

This is how I run my motor wire. (+ positive side wire is a bit long but that's because this car was a 98mm setup before...)

I have been practicing my car with PN regional layout for the past 2 weeks and even had a friend of mine (fast driver) to test the car. Both of us can only do fast lap of 9.41... again, that’s for two weeks. Usually, most of the drivers would drop that time today, then the next day or so they would drop a faster time. Didn't happen to us with my old setup.