Fast Pace Racing

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Reflex Racing v2 Spur (update: 1.21.2011)

TJ's picture
Posted Wed, 12/22/2010 - 4:18pm by TJ
In stock class, every racer is in search for that “extra” speed. Even with matched batteries, lightweight wheels, broken-in motor, comm drop?, 5 diff balls, ceramic bearings, etc… it’s still not enough! In search, we found… super lightweight spur gear by reflex racing!

No, it is not the version one that I’m speaking off.  The new version (v2) comes with two bushings! Yes, I said bushings! Before I went on my quick vacation, I had bushings on the works in replacement for the middle bearing on the diff. Luckily, I didn’t have to worry about them because when I came back, RR (reflex racing) already have them in stock and they’re cheap too! The bushing is the perfect replacement for the bearing because it is lighter and no, it won’t make the spur spin any slower because it’s bushing. Keep in mind that the bushing or bearing spins with the shaft… Not just the bushings that I’m excited about but also the weight of this spur. It is the lightest on the market! Yup, 0.6 grams with 2 mm bushing installed according to my scale. Now that’s light! My all time favorite PN 64-pitch (black) spur weighed in at 1.0g while my custom trimmed PN 64-pitch lsd (white) spur weighed in at 0.8g.

black=1.0 grams  white (trimmed)=0.8g

The RR v2 spur kit can be used for all types of “custom” fit diff such as: PN, ATM, 3racing, Kyosho and everyones favorite, qteq. The 2 mm bushings are used in replacement of the middle bearing while the 3.3 mm bushing are used for your custom fit diff like my qteq with kyosho plates. The 3.3 mm bushing with a little circular motion on top of a sand paper for about 10 mins or less, you can achieve a “perfect” fit spur that does not stick on one side of the diff plates like the v1 spur and no extra shims needed. Just sand down to about 2.75 and then install it in the spur and call it a day. That easy!

  

Well, of course don’t forget to super glue it and make sure that it is center like so:
 
Notice how the bushing sticks out a little on both sides.
Reason why you want this bushing to stick out a bit on both sides is because you do not want the spur to come in contact with the diff plates. With the grease on the plates and then the side of the spur, when the two comes together, it’s like a suction. They get stuck together (think of it as having two 1’x1’ glass on top of each other. It takes time to pull one out. You maybe even need to use a tool just to pry one out of each other)... When it does, your rear wheel locks up when you’re off-throttle.

Pic shown with no proper bushing. Notice how the spurs entire body can lean/touch/stick on the right side of the diff plate:
When installed on the diff, your spur should look like the one below. Just make sure that even if your move the spur by hand on one side, there should still be a gap between the diff plates and the spur. It doesn’t have to be perfectly centered. The idea is not have the spur touch the diff plates.

   

When you got that covered, spin the diff and make sure that everything is smooth and and no binding. Properly thighten your diff and put it on the track.
 
A lightweight drivetrain should help your car pull out of the corner or jump out of the line much quicker. It may gain a little bit of drag brakes when off throttle but that’s barely noticeable. Just don’t let off the throttle and banzai your way in. lol Ok jk. Just adjust your radio or your driving. More than likely, you wont notice the drag feel.
 
I hope this helps some of you guys. For tutorial on the installation, please visit: www.reflexracing.net or this link.

Track test 1 (12.22.2010):
I was able to try the spur this afternoon for one hour and 5 sets of battery and wow! Very quiet and smooth. I had to tighten the diff a little bit more than normal because its starts to slip. I can't tell the difference in speed on the straightaway due to the new batteries I was using. But I know for sure it made a difference just because I had to tighten the diff everytime I slap a fresh set of battery pack on there, the diff will slip... I dont want to readjust it because it'll feel tight when the batteries calms down. Also, there's no drag feel! To me at least... Anyway, finally! A super light, very easy to install, spur gear from our friends in reflex racing.

Track test 2 (12.23.2010):
Today, I spent a good 5 hours on the track with the rest of the guys at FPR. It's a bit hard to tell how much "punch" I gained from this mod when going around the track by myself. So, to compare it with the other guys running the typical 64-pitch setup, I followed a car infront of me (with the same battery runtime on both cars, same gear ratio, same setup, same weight just different paint job ) and in the infield, everytime I hit the throttle to full, I will pass his car.  Like we were drag racing but only on a 4-6' section on the track. Short burst of speed! To even it out, we then switch battery and went for it again and the results are the same everytime we both go on this section of the track. The straightaway is dead even on both cars but the infield is just way punchier from neutral (rolling but no power on the throttle) to full throttle. Imagine passing him in such a short distance?! I'm really amazed on how this thing works. It's perfect for stock class.

That's it for now folks! Thanks for reading.
 
Update: 01.21.2011

It's been a month and I've replaced my diff shaft at least 4 times (for testing)... I've been going to the track almost 3-4 times a week and driving my car with no problems or whatsoever with this reflex racing spur. I thought the CA/super glue would come off from hard hits or even when I rebuild my diff but its solid! The bushing is there and not going anywhere although I do not use motor cleaner or alcohol when cleaning my spur. Soap/water and brush is what I use to remove those dust/dirt that are stuck inbetween the holes.

The only thing I had to do with the diff is to clean them after 11 hours of runtime (I use my 3PK time indicator for tracking time). After a while, you can feel the diff gets a little sticky from the tire/rcp dust. It's easy clean though. Just open it up and wipe/brush off the build up using a paint brush and apply grease. That's all I do and the diff is back in action!
 

-Tj Macabuhay