2009 PN 2wd Stock Setup

I have been practicing my car with PN regional layout for the past 2 weeks and even had a friend of mine (fast driver) to test the car. Both of us can only do fast lap of 9.41... again, that’s for two weeks. Usually, most of the drivers would drop that time today, then the next day or so they would drop a faster time. Didn't happen to us with my old setup.
I switch my car over to this setup and on my first 3 laps, my car dropped 9.32 and on the 4th lap the car did 9.25 and then a 9.26 on the 6th lap... This is with the same exact gear ratio, motor and batteries. Just change in setup.
You can try it out and see how it works out for you.
MR02 PN 70 Turn Stock Setup
2 degree camber
#2 kyosho red toe bar (just to make my front wheels straight)
0 caster (stock chassis)
PN white low down springs
PN alum orange cup/limiter
1x shim under knuckles
0 offset PN machine cut wheels
FPR front spacers
Kyosho 30 radials
PN 94-98mm dds system
PN blue springs top dds
PN green springs botom dds
ATM hardened post for dds
PN black disc for dds
PN titanium screws all around
PN 94-98 v2 motor pod with #1 cup, right side up
PN steel bearings set
PN ultra light shaft
PN ball diff hubs
PN 64pitch (53/13)
Reflex Racing ceramic balls
PN Rear machine cut +1 wheels
PN6 Rear Radials
PN medium H-plate (SSG)
PN T-bar adaptor
94mm configuration
SC430 white body with top body mod...
and of cousre FPR decals
PN white low down = with this springs, the frontend of the car doesn’t dive in to the corners when slowing down (off-power). It has a very good mid cornering and on-power steering on “S” turns.
PN orange alum cup = This seemed to work great with my set-up. No shim on top.
PN blue springs top dds = PN dds springs has a bit more tension than atm and I need that for this set-up. Stiff springs on top because I need my rear end planted at all times. Having a stiff spring on top pushes the rear end down.
PN green bottom springs dds = Softer than top springs so that it’s able to absorb most of the irregularities on the track like bumps and such.
With these spring combinations, my rear end is pretty planted on the ground, in and out of the corner. Just don’t forget to use dampening oil! From my experience, I would use the following oil weight for these track (only on a non-metal damper plate with medium H-plate):
So Cal. RCP = 40-60wt (maybe even thicker)
Nor Cal = 20-35wt.
#1 cup right side up (#1 on top) = This brings the rear end level with the front. It makes the car more balance. Off-power and mid corner is perfect with this set-up.
PN Medium SSG H-plate = initial turn in: the rear end does not dip in like how it would with a soft t-plate. It makes the car very neutral. The car seemed to turn in the middle oppose to having it turn from the rear.
Note: I don’t use ATM shocks anymore. ATM shocks even with softer springs on top shocks, makes the rear end quite unpredictable, especially on a bumpy track. This is due to the RCP not being consistent/even. No top shocks/springs = more rear end dampening.




